Makes total sense… but… sorry if this is a dumb question - if you hand-plane directly after machining, and then the board sits for a couple of weeks, and it moves - wouldn’t you have to do it all again anyway?
Usually no. We are talking about TINY changes to the shape of the board. If you plane up the board ASAP, you remove the machine marks. Then it moves a tiny bit – and it's nothing you can see. It still looks flat and behaves as flat for joinery.
But to the smoothing plane it's not flat and would require a lot of work to remove the machine marks.
Basically you are doing the cosmetic work while it's easy to do.
Makes sense. But I will only practice this on boards off the table saw or band saw, as I have no planer nor jointer. That's why my roubo bench is made from NW soft maple, not eastern hard maple. 😁
Makes total sense… but… sorry if this is a dumb question - if you hand-plane directly after machining, and then the board sits for a couple of weeks, and it moves - wouldn’t you have to do it all again anyway?
Usually no. We are talking about TINY changes to the shape of the board. If you plane up the board ASAP, you remove the machine marks. Then it moves a tiny bit – and it's nothing you can see. It still looks flat and behaves as flat for joinery.
But to the smoothing plane it's not flat and would require a lot of work to remove the machine marks.
Basically you are doing the cosmetic work while it's easy to do.
Gotcha thanks
Makes sense. But I will only practice this on boards off the table saw or band saw, as I have no planer nor jointer. That's why my roubo bench is made from NW soft maple, not eastern hard maple. 😁
Thanks Chris. A useful tip, will do that.
Cheers,
Michael