Well, Chris, it turns out Alligator Juniper is indeed NOT a good chair material, at least according to some hammer tests 😅. But thank you for your original response, it pushed me to learn more about the values listed on the The Wood Database and what they truly mean (and their limitations); peviously I really only understood janka.
I have considered using them as well. In my mind, I'm thinking "if my fingers are so close to the blade with these gloves on, I've made a number of dumb decisions to get here...." So far, I have not needed them, but I'm sure I will someday.
I built a sideboard about 6 years ago that had a bunch of experimental (for me at least) construction. The rectangular box is dovetailed pine, like an oddly shaped and oversized tool chest. The ends were "veneered" cherry. The pine is over an inch thick, and the cherry is over an inch. 2-1/4" altogether.
Everything says "you can't laminate two different species like that! Except you can. No splitting, no cupping, no issues.
Cut resistant Gloves are very helpful for those of us who take blood thinners and do Handtool woodworking with sharps like chisels, carving knives etc. They can be useful for others too and can also be used with woodworking machines in specific cases. The thin, level 5 cut resistant and thinner ones by Dex Fit ( on Amazon) are comfortable, flexible and have a snug fit, nothing to snag. Good dexterity too using marking pencils etc. I have used them for 5 years without issues. They have several sizes for a good fit.
I understand the glove on the stationary left hand, but Megan is taunting the commenters with the photo of her using no push stick and billowy pirate shirt sleeves right? right?
The board is about 8" wide. A push stick would *reduce* control in this instance. We usually switch to push sticks below 6", depending on the work.
The sleeve is not in the path of the blade, so that's her call. I never think about sleeves because mine are always rolled up. Not for safety. But because my arms are too long for any shirt for humans.
Well, Chris, it turns out Alligator Juniper is indeed NOT a good chair material, at least according to some hammer tests 😅. But thank you for your original response, it pushed me to learn more about the values listed on the The Wood Database and what they truly mean (and their limitations); peviously I really only understood janka.
Now I'm using it for practice / mock-ups.
Yes to gloves and yes to ‘just try it’ and see what happens.
I regularly wear tight fitting gloves that have a textured grippy surface. They act much like a push block and give me better control and protection.
I have considered using them as well. In my mind, I'm thinking "if my fingers are so close to the blade with these gloves on, I've made a number of dumb decisions to get here...." So far, I have not needed them, but I'm sure I will someday.
Yes!
I built a sideboard about 6 years ago that had a bunch of experimental (for me at least) construction. The rectangular box is dovetailed pine, like an oddly shaped and oversized tool chest. The ends were "veneered" cherry. The pine is over an inch thick, and the cherry is over an inch. 2-1/4" altogether.
Everything says "you can't laminate two different species like that! Except you can. No splitting, no cupping, no issues.
Cut resistant Gloves are very helpful for those of us who take blood thinners and do Handtool woodworking with sharps like chisels, carving knives etc. They can be useful for others too and can also be used with woodworking machines in specific cases. The thin, level 5 cut resistant and thinner ones by Dex Fit ( on Amazon) are comfortable, flexible and have a snug fit, nothing to snag. Good dexterity too using marking pencils etc. I have used them for 5 years without issues. They have several sizes for a good fit.
Cheers,
Michael
As someone who has a paralyzing fear of making mistakes, columns like this are liberating.
Ahh don't worry about it. Just use a Saw Stop : -) I here they're going to start making chisels too.
I understand the glove on the stationary left hand, but Megan is taunting the commenters with the photo of her using no push stick and billowy pirate shirt sleeves right? right?
The board is about 8" wide. A push stick would *reduce* control in this instance. We usually switch to push sticks below 6", depending on the work.
The sleeve is not in the path of the blade, so that's her call. I never think about sleeves because mine are always rolled up. Not for safety. But because my arms are too long for any shirt for humans.
That's just shadows; it's not billowy and no way could it hit the blade.